Shoulder length sling climbing reddit trad. The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s .

Shoulder length sling climbing reddit trad. Do not alternate directions or anything like that. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. You need to have the right size ready and racked up front on your harness. Adjust length such that all strands are tight - pretty much always out of reach They suck. No sling on thumb loop action here. This is an excellent choice for simple multipitch anchors, as it gives a defined 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. 8-12 is a good starting point. When I first started trad climbing, I used a shoulder gear loop but never really liked it. I'd get some 30cm open slings instead, good draw for in between alpines and 18cm dogbone draws. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. If shoulder or double length . As mentioned already - flip the stacked rope from you to her. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. I've found that a combination of alpine-style anchors (tricks like clipping two pieces to the same sling) 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. Get some cord to make trad anchors with, as your pieces may be spread out at the anchor. Figure out how many wiregates you need and then buy half a dozen more. 2 . Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I often just rack them on alpine draws. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Hello here is a picture of the rack I have built over the last 2 years while trad climbing on granite in Canada! Please also share yours and tell uss why you like it! 6 BD Camelot (The wide and dog attachment system to the crag) 5 to . Also, have her clean the gear onto a shoulder-length sling - that way all she has to do is hand you the sling, and you have all your gear back. At I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. If your home turf is like the Rockies with lots of wandering pitches on limestone then mostly shoulder length runners makes sense. Keep every loop exactly the same length. however, im not doing any trad, or using them in situations where weight/bulk is an issue. Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. But I don’t use shoulder slings as they are too annoying. Personally I use C4 0. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 4, and maybe the . When you need a certain sling, you can simply unclip the carabiner from one of the two ends and pull it. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Even though you don't appear to have a sharp edge, that is going to wear the slings and they're not Really depends on the scenario. 5 BD C4 (Works, but not a fan) . A couple double-length runners, several shoulder-length slings, and a few For multi pitch, my partner and I generally carry one 240cm sling, one tech cordalette, and a 120cm each. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Either from your shoulders directly or (easier) remove the whole coil into your hand and then undo one coil at a time from there. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. When I trad climb, I'll usually carry a few of my standard sport draws with 10cm slings, and well as 4 or 5 extendable draws, made with tripled 60cm slings Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. I use a nylon daisy to connect to the anchor, and then a For trad climbing many places consider a “standard rack” something like cams bd sizes 0. I also love 120cm alpine draws which I rack at 1/5th length so they extend as easily as a 60cm alpine, however they aren't very common. Rope goes through each bit of gear and is clove-hitched back to an HMS on the figure of eight rope loop at the harness (not belay loop). On the final coil before tying off, give the whole coil a slight rotation in the tighter direction Yes yes yes you must remove coils one at a time. On the final coil before tying off, give the whole coil a slight rotation in the tighter direction Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. 12s on trad) and he said just be thoughtful placing your gear, it shouldn't be too bad. That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. It is cheaper to use pre-made quickdraws, so that's what most people do. Once harnesses came equipped with gear loops most people never went back. Cams and tri cams work well in pockets. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. What kind of slings you need (and how many) depends somewhat on where you're climbing. In normal trad areas I don’t take the locking draw, as many slings, or as many free biners. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. 3/. I always keep a few slings over my shoulder that aren't first up while I'm on technical sections. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. Three bits of gear (ideally threads/slings or nuts in separate cracks) with screwgates attached. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in Instead of a cordellette, a 48" sling (double-shoulder length) simplifies the process. Nuts do no good if they get pulled out from above. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. I would make the . For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Bravo Long Draws - 3 lengths These are lightweight, high-strength, long quickdraws that are great for all your climbing projects. Small cams and nuts front left, big cams front right, quickdraws back left, belay device and anchor gear back right, shoulder length slings with a single biner each over the shoulder. im using them for anchors, extending rappels, PAS, organizing gear, etc. Cams can be reslung by places like mountain tools, metolius, and black I used to carry both alpine draws and quickdraws on my harness. I tried a shoulder sling and couldn't get into it, but I haven't climbed many chimney pitches. I always keep 4 slings on my harness that are racked on two biners. At this point in my trad career, I extend every passive placement with a shoulder length sling. Looking for advice on multi pitch rack/kit I’m getting ready for a trip to red rock for some moderate trad multi pitch. 3 . If you can find a deal on 8mm wide dyneema slings get those. I like having a bunch of shoulder length slings with me, and some double shoulder length slings in case I need to sling a chockstone/horn, or need to deviate from my original route to reach pro. When to use it: Single-length runners are best when a climb wanders right or left from the main line. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. As the climber climbs and the belayer belays, there will be a natural back and forth sideways sawing action against the rock. If it’s golds through that whole section, which for me would be great hands, I would still jam with both hands thumbs up, with my right shoulder and hip against the wall; maybe bringing my left hand thumbs down to place gear but I imagine not, seeing that my Not necessarily a new climber, but I’ve been thinking of using voltaren gel after some of my more intense climbing sessions to help with the soreness in the back/shoulder area. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Taking it slow, learning a lot. How many draws do you normally take to a mixed/trad climb? I defintley brought waaaay too many draws and slings (I was thinking better safe than sorry) to this one and I'm trying to pack lighter for the next one. I like to rack my slings as alpines, and often bring a dozen on long wandering pitches so that might be my issue haha. On here sits all the extra stuff. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). Anything I should watch out for? I asked my buddy who is an older trad climber (been climbing for 30 years and climbed 5. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). UK trad climber here - hardly ever see bolted belays here so all natural. This Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. I don't want to think about putting a bolt side biner into a Cam's sling. This will be her first outdoor climbing experience. I have experience on single pitch trad and some experience on simple multi pitch trad climbs, but I’ve never led more complicated, longer trad climbs. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. Depends on the route and the rack. Besides keeping the stands an equal length, this method makes it easier to rack multiple slings over your shoulder. For sport routes, it makes less sense since they (relatively) rarely wander much. If I had to use double length slings, I I started climbing by sport climbing and picked up Petzl spirit draws from the get go. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. Reply [deleted] • Cams (Black Diamond 0. Reply reply More repliesMore replies IHeartsFarts •• Edited Another set of nuts I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. Sport Quick Draws: I save these for sport climbing and don't put them in with my trad gear. If your climbing coastal granite then having a mix of draws and runners makes more sense. I have about 8-9 shoulder length slings with wire gates as quickdraws, I haven't used a normal quickdraw outside of sport climbing for years. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. 5 - 2 the most. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. I now carry shoulder length slings with single biners over the shoulder instead. If there are bolted anchors, I’ll usually use a shoulder length sling with a girth or clove hitch mp Reply reply GoSox2525 • If trad cragging cams, nuts, etc and gear sling just jammed into bottom as densely as possible, then harness, shoes. 1 or 2 prussiks or Autoblock 1 shoulder-length sling (can use as gear sling if needed or as prussik/rap backup if needed. I also use those to make alpine draws with the skinny metolius shoulder length slings. *1 each 12 small wire carabiners for alpine draws and cams- Ocun Kestrel 25g 4 regular sized wire carabiners for anchors Few meters 5-6mm accesory cord. Keep a short draw attached to your belay loop to use as a fifi hook For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. I now rack most everything on my harness. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. I think in the UK there's a climbing tradition and ethic where if you climb outside you climb trad and/or boulder, and a natural progression would be towards the Alps where knowing your way around gear is essential. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Clip each bolt, clip sling to bolts, equalize, and tie off. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. Racking two cams of the same size on a single biner rather than side by How to accessorize for Trad climbing (DIY gear sling) 9 comments Top Add a Comment gravity_loss • 7 yr. The way they Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. 2/. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot And extending them. Also, when you choose a beaner for your nuts, make sure you get one that has no notch at the gate because in a pinch placement you will always get it stuck on there in panic mode. Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from I rarely use 12cm draws for trad outside of 'trad protected highballs'. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. 3, . Black Diamond is the gold standard for cams. I might use a sling that I personally bought 10 years ago, but I wouldnt use a 10 year old sling from Craigslist. It's very common to do this with shoulder length slings (60cm) in trad or alpine climbing, as extending them allows to place protection far on the sides while keeping ropedrag minimal. Just curious. If your crag has a lot of meandering, zigzagging lines, you'll need more slings (and biners/crabs too) in order to prevent rope drag. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Helmet on head, chalkbag tied onto bag, rope over shoulder or someone else carries it. Yes yes yes you must remove coils one at a time. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each Check the dates on the cam slings. 4/. With a bunch of Moses, slings, and cams, you can rock climb hard. Half length together and full lengths together. ago Depends on your local climbing area. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be 25 votes, 48 comments. If you want to be cheap, you can inspect your sport draw biners and see if they're alright to use for the alpine draws. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. This is 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. 11b/c for sport and TR 5. I recommend the Wild Country one with a leash) 1 cordalette (if you have 2, bring the other in the car. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. If you just need to leave one or two slings for a rap anchor you end up with an off-length and not particularly useful cordalette so then you are buying a whole new cordalette which costs more that two tied tape slings. At least two double length, but def. 5-3 in. 12s in a few places I've gone. Climb at a place with long thin low angle cracks -small thin cams and stoppers ( I rack 3-5 on one biner- 6x 60cm 11mm dyneema sling *may want more depending on the route 2x 120cm 11mm dyneema sling 1x 240 8mm dyneema sling or enough dyneema/aramid cord to make an equivalent length sling. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. all my slings are nylon because theyre cheap. Another option is to double it up and then put it over the shoulder, like a single-length sling. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. Hope this helps! r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit 8-10 shoulder length slings and a few double length slings (nylon or dyneema) cord for building anchors (i have a 25 ft cordelette) ~5-6 locking carabiners for various things 6-8 quickdraws single rack of camalot c4s 0. Trad setup varies by how many multiples of sizes I'm bringing. Edit to say: I Also would include at least one double length sling and a few shoulder length slings. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled? You got it! Single length, shoulder length, and 60cm all refer to the same size. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I have a good bit of bolted multi pitch experience. Sure it may take just a bit longer to hand off gear when swinging leads, but carrying everything on a sling around your Cool! Thanks for the reply. it's dangerous. Great if you need to leave a whole cordalette’s worth of material behind on a climb. 1 Zero friends offsets (Super bomber I love them) DMM Torque nuts (They sit at home ;) ) Tricams (I love Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. The other thing that I've started to realize recently is that there has to be a balance between learning from people and using your own judgement. Is this a good idea? Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. 5 X-4s. Bag is 25-30L-ish sewed by yours truely. Easy access to everything. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. I'm solid leading 5. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Single length nylon slings are super cheap, about $3 but they do get bulky on you harness. Good attitude depending where you climb at you need to do something different to get good protection. I however started with exactly the cams you have (or maybe first with hexes I don’t remember) and a single rack of nuts. 4-3 so little grey to big blue (dmm 0-5 maybe). while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. I climb at Josh. It's also the standard alpine draw length. From my experience, that gear sling will be the first thing to go. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. 3-1", a set of BD stoppers, 6 quickdraws, and 4 shoulder length slings or 4 alpine quickdraws. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. This is my preferred method. Coppolillo recommends carrying different-length slings in trad areas, like those at Red Rock near Las Vegas, where the routes can wander. Helps to reduce the cluster on my harness. This piece is not necessary) Nut tool! (If you would like to do more trad stuff, it can be very useful to buy your own. These are my personal recommendations, but your list is also more than enough for most things in Squamish! Have fun! Reply reply mad_bromine • As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! For multipitch rappelling, I use double shoulder length nylon sling (it canbe spectra or dyneema if managed appropriately) with an overhand on a bite tied at slightly less than half way. If you have specific questions let me know. Trying to get some input from other climbers here. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s . That place with mini length climbs and ground fall potential always present. With all the slings on alpine I use either a traditional strap worn sling style with the strap over one shoulder and the camera resting on the opposite hip, or I wear a camera holster on a belt. Just make one big circle. 9). Did my first 12pitch climb recently, it was a mixed climb but some pitches weren't bolted except for the anchors. Check for burrs or any other aspects that could damage a sling before making an alpine draw with them. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. (eventually double up on this size range when you get the cash) extend size of cams in both directions depending on the type of climbs you're doing (generally What runners do you use for trad climbs? Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. Make two "aiders" by girth-hitching two shoulder-length slings together, and clip a biner to each. I also wouldn't discount starting with a #4 depending on the area. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. A bunch of old nylon slings which will be going into the trash soon. I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. recommend dyneema 8 or 6mm side because a quad/tripled nylon sling is hard to handle. egj qvtgca xonp jmikmq gkxh rwphykv wusocx bkfg dcu dmze